Victoria
Victoria, on the island of Mahé is one of the smallest
capital cities in the world, and the only major port in the
Seychelles. It's also the only town in the country - every other
settlement is a village. The courthouse and main post office
in the centre of town have been untouched since colonial times,
but the streets emanating from the centre have been rebuilt
over the past 20 years, giving the town a clean and modern look.
There are a few old houses and shops in the city centre, but
barely enough to give the town any character.
The Natural History Museum is right in the centre of town,
and specialises in natural history. It's a pretty eclectic
collection: there's the bones of the extinct Seychelles crocodile,
giant robber crabs, dried out fish, a deformed piglet in a
jar and lots of glassy-eyed stuffed animals. Other displays
include the wreckage of a ship which came to grief off the
Amiranteds in 1570 and a display of gris gris artefacts. If
you're more interested in the history of the country's people,
visit the National History Museum or the Seychelles People's
United Party Museum, which celebrates the history of the party.
Victoria's Botanical Gardens are highly recommended for short
and shady walks among a variety of native and introduced trees.
Within the gardens is a cafeteria, a pen of giant tortoises
and an orchid garden.
Victoria has plenty of guesthouses at budget prices (well,
as budget as the Seychelles gets), but they're all out in
the suburbs. This is also one of the best places on the island
for relatively cheap eats, as well as the odd up-market, romantic
restaurant.
Anse Lazio
The best beach on Praslin - in fact, one of the best in the
country - is Anse Lazio, in the far north of the island. The
beach has glorious white, soft sand, a few rounded granite
boulders and a lively line-up of waves. The water is a magical
turquoise colour. There's also a sheltered area with great
snorkelling at the end of the beach. There's even a terrific
restaurant at the end of the beach road. The beaches east
of Lazio are protected by a reef, which makes the water like
a giant bath - it's shallow, warm and safe, and there's some
nice snorkelling. Buses travel from Grand Anse around all
the island's beaches.
Cousin Island
This island, about 2km (1mi) off the south-west coast of Praslin
- has been a nature reserve since 1968, and is home to several
endangered species, as well as being a breeding ground for
seabirds and turtles. It's an amazing experience to walk through
thick forest with a bird on every branch, apparently oblivious
to humans. The rarest birds are the brush warbler and magpie
robin, and you might also get to see a white-tailed tropic
bird, the emblem of Réunion and Mauritius. The island
is also home to two very old tortoises, George and Georgina,
who follow visitors around in the hope of having their necks
stroked. You can only visit the island on a tour.
Mahé Beaches
Beau Vallon is one of the largest and certainly most popular
beaches in the Seychelles. The sand is good, clean and relatively
free of rocks. The waves can sometimes be large, as there
is a big break in the reef. There are platforms in the ocean
that you can swim out to, and the local resort lets non-residents
use its beach loungers and bar. Beau Vallon village has a
petrol station, a bank and some souvenir shops. The beach
is about 3km (nearly 2mi) west of Victoria, and you can either
catch a bus or walk.
The beaches in the southern part of the island are prettier
and quieter than those in the north. The nicest area for swimming
and snorkelling is opposite tiny Île Souris, on the
east coast. On the west coast, Anse Soleil and Anse Petite
Police are extremely secluded (you really need a jeep to get
to them), but worth the effort - there's a palm-fringed beach,
boulders to dive or snorkel from and some wonderful marine
life. If you like to watch, the surf at Anse Intendance is
incredibly wild and completely unsuitable for swimming, but
great for solemn gazing during pensive beach walks. Buses
run from Victoria to most of the island.
Ste Anne Marine National Park
There are six islands lying within the park a few km off Victoria.
The snorkelling here is superb. Moyenne is probably the best
island to visit, although you can only get here on a tour.
The island is known for its buried treasures and ghosts, and
you can have a look at the House of Dogs, built at the turn
of the century by an eccentric English woman as a home for
stray dogs. There's a lovely walk on a marked trail around
the island, with plenty of pretty plants and animals to look
at (including two giant tortoises), and there's also some
excellent snorkelling sites.
Round Island was once a leper colony - the chapel of the
colony is now a restaurant. If you can get over your initial
squeamishness, this is one of the best places in the country
for genuine Créole food. Round Island also has a plesant
tree-shaded walking track and an interesting national park
visitors centre.
Vallée de Mai
On the island of Praslin, Vallée de Mai has the Seychelles'
greatest concentration of coco de mer palms - almost 4000
of them. This valley's prehistoric forest is World Heritage
listed. Palms in the valley include the palmiste, latanier,
splayed traveller's palm and Chinese fans. The sunlight filtering
through their fronds and hitting the greens and oranges of
the leaves will make you go all poetic. Other interesting
plants in the valley are the wild pineapple, wild coffee and
the allspice bush - you should also keep an eye out for the
Seychelles black parrot, which is only found on Praslin. If
you're going to visit Vallée, keep to the tracks, don't
take anything away and don't leave anything behind - this
is an incredibly fragile forest.
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